by Marie | Aug 30, 2018 | Best of 2018, Lip Balm, Projects with Videos | 83 comments
This rich, creamy lip balm came out of the experiments I did as I was developing my recipe for my Basic Moldable Lipstick Base. It was the far end of my “let’s make this creamier” experiments, and while Iloved how it felt, it basically glued itself to the inside of the lipstick mold and refused to budge. Not one to let something that luxxy go to waste, though, I decided it should be a lip balm instead!
Want to watch this project instead of read it?
Since this was borne out of lipstick development, not lip balm development, it definitely has a longer, fussier ingredient list than your average lip balm, but I think it’s worth it. The bulk of the lip balm is rich, glossy castor oil and creamy cetearyl alcohol. Cetearyl alcohol provides thickening along with being a wonderful emollient, and allows us to use less wax and still get a firm, creamy end product.
Lecithin and stearic acid further amp up the creamy factor; I love the slight tug they both add to the balm. Stearic acid also contributes to wax-less thickening. We do still have two waxes in here—beeswax and candelilla. Beeswax brings its wonderful tacky hardening to the balm, while candelilla brings a bit of hard, glossy hardness. The whole lot is rounded off with a bit of simple fractionated coconut oil and some vitamin E oil to extend the shelf life.
Despite the longer-than-usual ingredients list, making this balm is as easy as any other: measure, melt, pour. We will be doing something fun with this base in my next post, so stay tuned!
Want to watch this project instead of read it?
Creamy Lip Balm
Heated phase
20.25g | 40.5%castor oil (USA / Canada)
2.5g | 5%soy lecithin
10g | 20%cetearyl alcohol (USA / Canada)
2.5g | 5%stearic acid (USA / Canada / UK)
5g | 10%fractionated coconut oil (USA / Canada)
8g | 16%beeswax (USA / Canada)
1.5g | 3%candelilla waxCool down phase
0.25g | 0.5%Vitamin E MT-50 (USA / Canada)Prepare a water bath by bringing about 3cm/1″ of water to a bare simmer over low to medium-low heat in a small saucepan.
Weigh the heated phase ingredients into a small heat-resistant glass measuring cup. Place the measuring cup in your prepared water bath to melt everything through.
After about 20–30 minutes everything should be completely melted through. Remove the water bath from the heat, remove the measuring cup from the water bath, and dry it off with a dish towel. Weigh in the cool down phase and stir with a flexible silicone spatula to incorporate.
Pour 25g of the lip balm into a 30mL/1 ounce tin. We’ll be doing some cool stuff with that later 😉
You’ve now got enough lip balm left for about five standard tubes; you can pour it as is, or add 0.5–1% lip-safe essential oil and stir that in before pouring. Let that set up and you’re ready to roll!
Because these lip balms are 100% oil based, it does not require a broad-spectrum preservative (broad spectrum preservatives ward off microbial growth, and microbes require water to live—no water, no microbes!). Kept reasonably cool and dry, they should last at least a year before any of the oils go rancid. If you notice they start to smell like old nuts or crayons, that’s a sign that the oils have begun to oxidize; chuck them out and make a fresh batch if that happens.
Substitutions
As always, be aware that making substitutions will change the final product. While these swaps won’t break the recipe, you will get a different final product than I did.
- As I’ve provided this recipe in percentages as well as grams you can easily calculate it to any size using a simple spreadsheet as I’ve explained in this post. As written in grams this recipe will make 50g.
- Do not substitute the castor oil
- You can usesunflower lecithininstead of soy, just be sure whatever you use is liquid.
- Do not substitute the cetearyl alcohol or stearic acid
- You can substitute another lightweight oil like sweet almond, grapeseed, or sunflower seedfor the fractionated coconut oil
- You can use refined or unrefined beeswax
- You can try soy wax in place of the beeswax, though I haven’t tried this so I’m not sure how it’ll go.
- You can use carnauba wax instead of candelilla
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Before you comment with a question...
- Please read the entire post.
- Please read the Substitutions list in the post.
- Please look up any ingredients you have questions about in the
- Please check out the as well—there's over 100 articles!
Comments that ask questions that are answered in the post, Encyclopedia, or FAQ are unlikely to be answered. I'm sorry, but I'm just one person!
Belindaon August 30, 2018 at 7:28 am
Hey Marie!
What is the name/brand of the scale you used in the video? I noticed it had a cord attached so assuming it’s one you can plug in vs using batteries to power it. Does it have the option where you can turn off the automatic shut off function? What is the weight limit? Are you pleased with it? Inquiring minds want to know.
Thanks!
BelindaReply
Marieon August 30, 2018 at 9:35 am
I got it from LotionCrafter. It tops out at 700g and the buttons squeal something fierce whenever they’re pressed, and I haven’t found them to be terribly responsive. It does well with the first couple numbers (you’ll actually see 0.1g, which is unlikely with cheaper scales). I like that it doesn’t need batteries, but the cord can be a bit of a pain in terms of moving it around. You can turn off the auto-off. It’s pretty good… the screaming buttons are probably my biggest peeve lol.
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Belindaon September 1, 2018 at 10:10 am
I did notice the squealing bit in the video. I guess that could be annoying but not a deal-breaker. I’ve been wanting a better scale that didn’t require batteries, sensitive to registering the weight of the pour, and with a shut off option for the auto off. This one sounds promising! I’ll check it out! Thank you for the input!
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Marieon September 3, 2018 at 3:59 pm
I bet all the scales from Lotion Crafter are amazing; I think I just got some of the less expensive ones 😛
Kellyon August 30, 2018 at 11:37 am
Hi! As I’m gathering the shopping list, I’m curious as to if you would suggest buying both cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol or just one of them? Which one is more useful and what is your preference?
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Marieon August 31, 2018 at 2:38 pm
Hmmmm. I’d say cetearyl alcohol is more like stearic acid, but it definitely sits between cetyl and stearic. I’d probably get cetyl and stearic if you just want two—you can approximate cetearyl with a blend of cetyl and stearic, and then you’ll still have the individual components if you need them 🙂
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Kellyon September 1, 2018 at 8:58 pm
Cool! These things sure get confusing! Thanks Marie!
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Marieon January 15, 2019 at 2:29 pm
No worries—happy making!
Kymon October 15, 2019 at 4:19 pm
Can you help me with changing the measurements to tablespoon or cups??
Marieon October 16, 2019 at 9:53 am
Please give this FAQ a read 🙂
Julieon August 30, 2018 at 12:27 pm
Woo Hoo. I think I deserve some sort of prize because I had this made and poured before 10:00 this morning. It seemed rather fortuitous, because I’ve been working on a formula for a really therapeutic lip balm. Something with Shea, Lecithin, Lanolin, and up to 5% vitamin E, plus the other usual stuff, to help heal my little ones cracked lips in the winter. I was so excited to see this new style of lip balm, that I wanted to try it right away to see if I liked any of these new ingredients. I had trouble getting the Candelilla wax to stay melted, and I find the finished product a bit skiddy at first, but this stuff has some serious staying power, and feels great. Also, it stands up perfectly in the warmth of my pocket.
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Marieon August 31, 2018 at 2:37 pm
Wow, that’s got to be a speed record! Well done 😀 I’m finding I really like the “grabby-ness” of the balm on application—it makes it easy to put on lots if I need it. I don’t find this one to be quite as skiddy as the Sticky Coconut Lip Balm, but it definitely doesn’t just glide across the skin effortlessly. I’ve definitely started to associate that grabbiness with a long lasting lip balm, though—now glidey ones just don’t feel like they work as well, ha. I hope you enjoy the extension project that’s coming out next! Thanks for making with me 🙂
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Jay W.on August 30, 2018 at 7:31 pm
hi, I wanted to know why candelilla and beeswax? both ingredients should do the same thing.please help.
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Marieon August 31, 2018 at 2:30 pm
From the post above: “We do still have two waxes in here—beeswax and candelilla. Beeswax brings its wonderful tacky hardening to the balm, while candelilla brings a bit of hard, glossy hardness.”
Think of it like this: many recipes include both brown sugar and white sugar, despite them both being sweeteners. That is because they bring other qualities to the end product than just sweetness. Beeswax and candelilla wax are both hardeners, but they bring different feels to the end product, and I wanted a blend of those characteristics.
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Arthuron September 6, 2018 at 8:31 pm
Is the amount for the essential oil just for the extra tubes or for the entire recipe? Also, I’m having difficulty keeping the lecithin dissolved. It wants to separate and leave a clump at the bottom of the measuring cup. Is there a trick to this?
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Marieon September 24, 2018 at 10:43 am
Are you using liquid lecithin or the granules?
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Arthuron October 18, 2018 at 9:55 am
Liquid. But after sending my question, I realized I used cetyl alcohol rather than cetearyl. Would that make that much of a difference?
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Marieon November 24, 2018 at 7:59 pm
Cetyl alcohol is more slippy and less creamy than cetearyl, so it’ll probably make the balm less creamy.
robin pickersgillon November 13, 2019 at 11:54 am
I also had difficulty getting the sunflower liquid lecithin to “dissolve” into the melted ingredients. I used the recipe as stated…mixed with my spatula but most of the lecithin remained on the bottom settling out. Any suggestions.
Marieon November 29, 2019 at 9:52 am
Hmm—do you have a link to what you purchased? Thanks!
Rose-Anneon March 19, 2019 at 5:39 pm
I had the same problem. You can solve it by dissolving the lecithin in room temperature castor oil. (I used 5g of it)
Let the rest melt together and add the lecithin/ castor oil mixture when the rest is starting to solidify. (So after cooling down somewhat)Reply
Arthuron April 10, 2019 at 8:01 am
Thanks!
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Melody Beswickon September 29, 2018 at 9:03 am
Is there a way that I can sub a combo of cetyl alcohol and more stearic acid for the cetearyl? I know you say don’t sub it, but in a later comment you said you could make a close sub of it with these. Just wondering. Thanks!
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Marieon October 1, 2018 at 9:12 am
In theory, probably, but I haven’t done the testing to know what the ratios and amounts would be. It’s worth a try, but it’s not the sort of thing I’d put in the substitutions list because you will likely have to do some testing to get it right 🙂
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Jenniferon October 22, 2018 at 2:02 pm
I wonder if you can substitute the lecithin for VegeSilk? Would this work? I’m interested in making this recipe, but don’t have any lecithin to use.
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Marieon December 4, 2018 at 9:16 pm
Do you have an INCI for “vegesilk”?
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Zilon October 27, 2018 at 8:25 am
Oh just made this and the texture is so lovely!!!! I don’t know how you possibly made the perfect chapstick but some pulled off some magic!
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Marieon October 29, 2018 at 8:44 pm
WHEEE! I’m so glad you love it, too 😀
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Lorena Vargason November 16, 2018 at 5:33 am
Hi Marie: Love, love your tutorials, have tried several with success! for this tutorial have tried the soy wax and it works perfect.
Keep going with such a beautiful job, appreciated and inspirational.
Thanks,
LorenaReply
Marieon November 20, 2018 at 7:11 am
Wonderful, thanks so much for letting me know! I’d really like to find some soy wax that isn’t candle wax, and that doesn’t have to be purchased a kilo at a time!
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Gnome Beardon November 29, 2018 at 10:56 pm
Hey Marie, I finally gave this recipe a try and wanted to know if you had any issues melting the soy lecithin? As I was melting everything, I looked at the bottom of my beaker and noticed little bits and granules. It was in the water bath for about 35 – 40 min. I also turned up the heat and went up to 87C to make sure everything properly melted. After it set it looked very mealy and kinda clumpy. Do you think it’s the soy lecithin?
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Lelia Lyonon December 28, 2018 at 8:20 pm
I had the exact same issue! I’m using Fern brand liquid soy lecithin, I’ve made it three times now and every time there is a little blob of it at the bottom of my container. It doesn’t matter how hard I stir, it’s never mixes in. In fact some times when I do mix hard it just breaks it up into tiny drops that stick to the sides of my container. Any thoughts?
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Gnome Beardon February 26, 2019 at 11:59 am
Yup, I’m using the same brand.
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Marieon January 19, 2019 at 10:10 pm
I haven’t had any issues with it at all, but forgive me if I’ve asked this before—is your lecithin liquid or granules? It’s just the “granules” thing sounds very odd for something that was liquid, so that’s where my mind is going.
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Gnome Beardon February 26, 2019 at 11:58 am
It’s liquid. I think it might be the brand. It’s a very viscous liquid if I remember correctly. Lots of debris when its all melting in the beaker.
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Marieon March 7, 2019 at 11:23 am
Hmm, boo. I would agree with your brand assessment—perhaps see if you can find a different brand, possibly from a cosmetics ingredients seller? They might be a bit more discerning about selling a product that is better suited for this sort of thing. Hmm.
Thanks for being a patron!
Katy Greenspanon March 11, 2019 at 7:56 pm
I used a different brand of Sunflower Liquid Lecithin and had the same issue. I still like it tho! I’ll just have to remember to toss it before I find the weird globs at the bottom 🙂
Rose-Anneon March 19, 2019 at 6:08 pm
I had the same problem. And it’s definitely the lecithin causing it.
You can solve it by dissolving it in half of the castor oil called for at room temperature. Let the rest melt and cool down until its halfway solid and then stir in the mixture.Reply
Nettyon December 23, 2018 at 9:05 am
I made this recipe and love it, but I want to add a little mango or cocoa butter to it. Can I? What would you suggest I reduce in order to accommodate?? Thanks!
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Marieon December 25, 2018 at 2:26 pm
I wouldn’t recommend this recipe as one to incorporate either of those butters, but I do have quite a few that already use those ingredients. This would be a good choice—just use mango butter instead of shea 🙂
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Anuon January 9, 2019 at 9:38 pm
Hi Marie,
Ant replacement of lecithin? I don’t have any. I have lanonin though. I know both have different roles to play. But still what would you suggest.Reply
Marieon January 14, 2019 at 9:31 am
I’m afraid not; I’d recommend making a different (less complex) recipe if you don’t have it. I have lots!
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Bethon January 12, 2019 at 3:24 pm
Hi Marie
I am so excited to try this recipe! Quick question – my plan is to make some as gifts to take to family in India. What are your thoughts on this base holding up well at higher temperatures? I am wondering if I should lower the oil and up the wax by a gram or two. Would that completely break the formula ratios? Thanks for all your hard work and for sharing your tried and tested recipes so generously. Much appreciated
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Marieon January 14, 2019 at 8:24 pm
I’m afraid it’s pretty hard for me to say—I’m staring at a forecast with highs of -14°C for later this week :/ That said, I have taken similar lip balm formulations to Costa Rica and they did just fine. They softened a bit, but they didn’t melt. I’ve got a bit of an FAQ on this here 🙂 You could try swapping out a couple percentages of liquid oil for wax, but I haven’t tried that—and I can’t really try it for you for those weather conditions because, again… highs of -14°C. Booo. Some day I’d love to take a warm weather formulation vacation, but I haven’t yet! Happy making 🙂
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Michael D. Coleon January 14, 2019 at 7:14 pm
Marie quick question. Here in the states its rather hard locating anyone who sells Cetearyl Alcohol anymore. All of my normal go-to distributors are no longer offering this product. I found some here at: https://www.essentialwholesale.com/product/2549/cetearyl-alcohol
I have never purchased from this company before but wanted to know from the description if it seemed like the correct stuff to use. They mention somewhere in the description about being unsure of their % of cetyl vs stearyl.
Thoughts?
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Marieon January 14, 2019 at 8:20 pm
Hey! Have you tried clicking the “USA” link next to cetearyl alcohol in the recipe? I just updated the link as the owner of the website changed all their page URLs recently, but the supplier is the same—and American 🙂
Essential Wholesale is also great, but you would want to know the ratio 🙂
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Geo Heluon January 18, 2019 at 6:51 pm
Does this balm leave your lips glossy? If so, how would you go about reducing shine?
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Marieon January 21, 2019 at 9:31 am
It isn’t hugely glossy, no. This recipe is also super not glossy, and has fewer ingredients 🙂
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Audrey Bon March 27, 2019 at 11:11 am
Hi, Marie, have you ever used jojoba wax in lip balms? If so, would it work in this recipe in replacement for the candelilla wax?
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Marieon March 28, 2019 at 10:37 am
I haven’t, I don’t even own any–sorry!
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Anjion March 29, 2019 at 2:11 am
Hi! thanks for this amazing recipe, I can’t wait to try it 😀
I was wondering if I can substitute ‘fractioned coconut oil’ with grapeseed oil or sunflower oil?Reply
Marieon April 3, 2019 at 12:39 pm
Yup! Be sure to check out the Humblebee & Me DIY Encyclopedia (https://www.humblebeeandme.com/diy-encyclopedia/) for these kinds of questions 😉
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Jilaon May 14, 2024 at 5:56 am
Hi Marie,
I was wondering if i can use 10% tallow/cocoa butter/shea butter and reduce % castor oil, would it work just as well?Reply
Wendy allardon July 1, 2019 at 11:32 am
Hi Marie,
I love this lip balm and have made it many times. But I and those I’ve given it to have noticed after a couple months it becomes chunky. Mine has been in my desk at work so heat isn’t a factor. I’m wondering if it is the ceteryoL alcohol. Have you noticed this? Is there anything to prevent it?
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Marieon July 3, 2019 at 7:49 am
Hmm, thanks for running this up the flag pole, Wendy! I will have to look into this for you 🙂 I think you might be onto something as my first avenue of investigation would be “what’s different about this compared to other lip balms I’ve made that don’t do this”, and that is just the cetearyl alcohol. Hmmmmm. I would perhaps try making this with stearic acid instead of cetearyl alcohol and see how that goes.
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Patriciaon August 11, 2019 at 10:14 am
Hello Marie. 🙂
new to your lovely site, and looking forward to trying some of your expertly created recipes! I seem to be having trouble sourcing liquid lecithin, (ontario) so would it be safe to assume I can break open & use the supplement soft gels (jamison) that contain soy lecithin? thank you, or to anyone else that can provide any additional input. 🙂
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Marieon August 21, 2019 at 8:39 am
You can get liquid lecithin on Canadian Amazon—I’d do that instead of breaking open a ton of capsules 🙂
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Patriciaon August 19, 2019 at 9:05 am
hello Marie,
You mentioned recently in your last newsletter, that you would like to revisit/review some past recipe postings for any alterations /updates. May I suggest this one, creamy lip balm, as another poster (Wendy) commented that how lovely it was initially, she & friends noticed that it became “chunky’ after couple months. Would you care to ‘revisit’ this one, hopfully. thank you. 🙂Reply
Marieon August 19, 2019 at 9:06 am
I will add it to the list, thank you! 😀
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Patriciaon August 22, 2019 at 2:45 pm
thank you for your consideration, Marie! 🙂
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Janeton January 10, 2020 at 6:06 am
Hello. This recipe looks wonderful. I’m looking to make some tinted lip balms to sell at our local farmers’ market. How would these balms hold up to being outside in the heat and humidity? It can get rather brutal in the southeast during the summer months. Thank you.
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Marieon January 17, 2020 at 3:29 pm
I’d recommend reading this 🙂 Happy making!
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Anitaon May 21, 2020 at 7:34 pm
Just curious if you have ever added lip flavoring oil to any of your lip balm recipes and what you think of them?
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Marieon May 26, 2020 at 7:45 am
I tried a couple back in 2011 and really didn’t like how fake they tasted—they reminded me of strong artificial sweetener. I wasn’t a fan at all.
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Zandy Suttonon October 1, 2020 at 6:38 am
Thanks for an amazing recipe!
Is it possible to make without CANDELILLA or CARNAUBA? I have all ingredients, save for either of those two
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Marieon October 1, 2020 at 8:24 pm
I don’t recommend it; perhaps try a simpler formulation with fewer ingredients if you dno’t want to purchase one of those?
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Zandy Suttonon October 2, 2020 at 12:15 am
Thank you!
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Paulineon December 2, 2020 at 7:40 am
Just a quick one. I have seen in all your lip balm recipes Vitamin E MT-50 is used. Can I use vitamin E?
Marieon December 8, 2020 at 2:56 pm
Hey Pauline! Please review to learn more 🙂
Mrs. Con December 17, 2020 at 11:08 am
Another amazing lip balm recipe! I love how creamy and smooth this one goes on. Just made 42 tubes for Christmas gift packs. My kids look forward to these every year! Thank you, Marie.
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Marieon December 18, 2020 at 9:06 am
I’m so thrilled to hear it! Thanks for DIYing with me, and happy making 🙂
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Lisa M. Spateson January 9, 2021 at 2:25 pm
So i just tried this recipe for the first time. I changed out the fractionated Coconut oil for Grapefruit seed Oil. Found that maybe that was not a could choice. I found my balm not creamy. So, I re-melted and added a bit more castor and the liquid soy lecithin and that seem to help with the waxy feeling.. My next batch ill will stick to the recipe. But if you have any suggestions about the waxy feeling i was getting with the first try, I am very interested.
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Yuktaon March 2, 2021 at 3:44 am
I have tried out making simple lip balm which contains few oils,bee wax, fragrance oil and thickening agent it came out good but after applying that lip balm my lips skin is peeling off..why it is so..?? Help me out what can i do to make it healing balm
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Marieon March 2, 2021 at 9:37 am
It sounds like you are allergic to something in what you made; I would stop using it immediately and consult your physician.
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Don November 11, 2022 at 12:36 am
Was the lip balm too waxy? This happens to me as well if the product is too waxy. I don’t think it is an allergic reaction in my case.
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JJon April 22, 2021 at 4:35 am
I’ve just made this (putting my own little spin on it), and LOVE it! Thanks for sharing your fantastic formulations. 🙂
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Marieon April 22, 2021 at 12:08 pm
I’m thrilled to hear it! Thanks for DIYing with me, and happy making 🙂
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Heidi Croucheron May 16, 2021 at 6:32 pm
Would you say you favor this lip balm for yourself better than your newer creamy lip products like the creamy almond lip balm or your nourishing Lip balm?
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Marieon May 17, 2021 at 12:05 pm
I find I just keep going back to this one 🙂
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Ninaon March 10, 2022 at 1:33 pm
I’ve tried this formula, however the balm is too thick, hard to spread. What i can do to troubleshoot? What ingredients here responsible for softness
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Don November 11, 2022 at 12:38 am
I have the same question, it feels too waxy (what Marie describes as grabby). I think it might be suitable for very cold, dry climates but in the tropics (where I am) it feels too waxy and does not glide on well at all.
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Don November 11, 2022 at 12:40 am
Hi Marie, thanks for all your helpful content. I’ve struggled with this balm as mine felt too waxy (maybe what you describe as grabby but in my tropical climate it’s unpleasant to apply). Shall I use candelilla only (no beeswax) or more candelilla and less beeswax? Shall I swap out castor oil for a lighter oil (like caprylic capric triglyceride)? Any suggestions?
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Kyong Hanon January 27, 2023 at 2:25 pm
Hi, I know the formula says don’t substitute castor oil. But I have sensitivity to castor and can’t use it. Any other suggestions or (in general) what is a suitable alternative to castor oil. It’s used in lip gloss formulas but…wondering is there’s an alternative? Thank you.
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