Grissini (2024)

Veteran pastry chef Heather Miller has been making grissini at Barbuto, New York’s West Village institution, for as long as she can remember. Jonathan Waxman opened the restaurant in 2004 (relocating from 2019 to 2021), and the golden brown, olive oil– and salt-adorned breadsticks have been a staple on the menu ever since. “The recipe hasn’t really changed over the years,” says Miller. “People love them, it works — why change it?”

Frequently asked questions

What are grissini?

Grissini are pencil-thin, long, crispy breadsticks with a cracker-like crunch that have been made in the Piedmont region of Italy since the 1600s. At Barbuto, Miller leans on high-quality ingredients and a series of simple steps to consistently churn them out night after night.

What do I serve with grissini?

Serve a bundle of these rustic breadsticks with wine as an aperitivo alongside cheese, cured meats, and olives, or dunk them into soups and dips.

Can I make grissini in advance?

Dough can be prepared through step 2 up to 3 days in advance and stored, covered, in the refrigerator. Proceed with step 3 as directed. Baked grissini can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

“The trickiest part of the recipe is nailing the doneness,” Miller advises. “I twice bake them to strike a balance between texture and color.” We followed Miller’s method, giving the grissini an initial bake that dries them out to help create their snappy texture and then a second bake at a lower temperature that gives them a golden brown color. For a finishing touch, Miller rolls the grissini in a fruity Portuguese olive oil, Herdade do Esporão, that soaks into the porous crackers.

We found making the grissini with sourdough starter, as Barbuto does, produces the best flavor. Sourdough starter can be purchased at a local bakery or online at kingarthurbaking.com.

If you are unable to source sourdough, the F&W Test Kitchen created a workaround using biga, a stiff mixture of active dry yeast, flour, and water. Left to ferment at room temperature for a few hours, it takes on a mild, sourdough-like tang. To make a biga, substitute 1/4 teaspoon active dry yeast for sourdough starter in step 1.

Ferment the dough

1. 

   Stir together 1/4 cup warm water and sourdough starter (or 1/4 teaspoon yeast to make a biga) in a medium bowl until dissolved and well incorporated. Add 3/4 cup all-purpose flour (about 3 1/4 ounces), and stir with hands until dough is well combined, gently kneading mixture as needed. Cover and let stand at warm room temperature (about 75°F) until mixture is puffed, bubbly, and faintly sour smelling, 8 to 10 hours if using starter or 4 to 6 hours if using a biga.
   

Knead the dough

1. 

   See Also

   Best-by Dates and Stale Bread

   Combine sourdough starter mixture, 1 tablespoon oil, honey, yeast, and remaining 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons warm water in a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment; beat on low speed 30 seconds. Add bread flour, 2 teaspoons salt, and remaining 1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour (about 5 3/4 ounces); beat on low speed until dough is smooth and slightly elastic, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer dough to a lightly greased medium bowl; cover and chill at least 8 hours or up to 3 days.
   

Roll out the dough

1. 

   Preheat oven to 350°F. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper; set aside. Divide dough in half, and set one portion aside, covered, in refrigerator. Lightly flour a work surface, and roll remaining dough portion into a 12- x 7 1/2-inch rectangle.
   

Cut the dough into strips

1. 

   Cut dough into 12-inch-long, 1/4-inch-wide strips using a pizza cutter or a knife. Lay strips about 1/2 inch apart on prepared baking sheets. (Avoid pulling or stretching dough strips while transferring.)

Bake the grissini twice

1. 

   Bake grissini in preheated oven, one pan at a time, until pale and firm to the touch, 12 to 16 minutes. Let grissini cool on baking sheets 10 minutes. Repeat rolling, cutting, and baking process with remaining dough portion.

   Reduce oven temperature to 300°F. Consolidate grissini in a single layer on two baking sheets. Return grissini to oven, one baking sheet at a time, and bake at 300°F until golden brown, 15 to 22 minutes. Let grissini cool completely on baking sheets, about 15 minutes.

Finish the grissini with oil

1. 

   Drizzle grissini evenly with remaining 2 tablespoons oil; roll breadsticks with hands to coat. Sprinkle evenly with remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Let stand until oil is absorbed, about 15 minutes.